HELPFUL INFO FOR A NEW BASSET OWNER TO BE
Even if you don’t feel I’m the breeder for you I hope my website will help inform you on what you should look for in a breeder and in choosing your puppy. I breed basset hounds because I enjoy raising the puppies. I started out just with pets but now that I’ve personally searched for quality bassets for myself I am dedicated to producing puppies that will live up to peoples expectations for what a basset should look like.

This page has info on Avoiding Puppy Mills, Choosing a Breeder, Choosing a good Puppy, and Housbreaking tips.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO RESEARCH FURTHER INTO THE BASSET HOUND BREED YOU SHOULD CHECK OUT THE BASSET HOUND CLUB OF AMERICA'S WEBSITE
www.basset-bhca.org

BEWARE OF PUPPY MILLS!
I do NOT support or condone puppy mills or pet shops. These places are in the production business with little to no regard for health and quality of the puppies they produce. If you go to a breeder with multiple breeds, poor to low average facilities, and/or large numbers of adult dogs, beware that they might be a puppy mill. Don’t ask them, they won’t admit it. Pet shops present similar problems as most of their puppies come from Puppy Mills and they know even less about the puppies then the puppy mill the pups came from. If you want a quality registered dog, go to a breeder that specializes in 1 or 2 breeds that they adore. This is the breeders that will actually care about what they are producing and the breeder dogs they are using.

CHOOSING A BREEDER
First you should know that there are different types of breeders. There are show dog breeders, reputable kennels, and puppy mills.  You should also know that none of these groups will be fond of the other types of breeders.  Everyone has their own set of principals for their breeding program, you can read mine on my homepage, but regardless where you start your search this information I’ve listed below will help you be sure you are buying from a reputable breeder. Sometimes it’s easier to pass on a breeder before you get there and are face to face with a big eyed puppy, So ask about these things over the phone before you make the trip:
1) Ask what kind (if any) health guarantees the breeder offers. See if the puppies were vet checked, and regardless, if you buy one you want a window of time to have your puppy vet checked by your personal vet. Just like your vet will look out for you, the breeders vet will look out for them, so don’t always take the breeders word that the puppy is healthy. If they give you a health guarantee—get it in writing!
2) Are the puppies registered? And ask if you can see the ORIGINAL registration papers of the parents and possibly a 4 or 5 generation pedigree when you come see the puppies. (see # 6 below)
3) Are the parents on the premises to see in person? (see #4 below) If you are satisfied with the breeder’s responses over the phone and decide to go to the breeders to see the puppies, check out the following before agreeing to buy a puppy:
4) Always ask to see the parents of the litter. This will begin to give a picture of what your puppy might look like in adulthood it will also show you if they are breeding sick or poor quality dogs and if the parents have any odd personality issues like unsociable or aggressive. Remember your puppy gets its characteristics from its parents. You might also ask to see pictures of puppies from past litters if they are available.
5) Ask to see the facilities where the dogs are kept, bred, and the puppies raised. Don’t just walk up and pick a puppy out of a box and leave. Unsanitary conditions could cue you to possible health factors for your puppy. Good breeders will have clean and tidy facilities for both their puppies and adult dogs to reside in, with areas for exercise and playtime.
6) Ask to see the pedigree and/or registration papers on the parents. Even if you know nothing about a pedigree see if they have that information. If all they have is the registration that’s okay, it’ll still verify that at least the parents and the grandparents were registered. If the breeder starts stumbling all over themselves with reasons they can’t show you then you might need to be careful about buying from them. An honest breeder will have no problem with you seeing that information. DO NOT leave the property without the puppy registration application, and make sure it is the original printed from the kennel club not a copy.

CHOOSING A PUPPY
If you are still satisfied with the breeder after seeing all the above here are some favorable characteristics you can use to choose between puppies in a litter:
1) EARS. Basset hound puppies are supposed to have long low set ears. Pull the puppies ears forward toward the end of its nose. You want a minimum of touching each other at the center of the nose. Anything above that is bonus. Keep in mind that this usually doesn’t occur until between 5 and 6 weeks, basset ears are tiny when they are born, and they will keep growing for weeks to come.
2) HEAD. A basset head should be slender and long with a “brain bump”. The “brain bump” is important. This is tiny at 6 weeks but should be there. Go straight up from the ears to the top center of the head and you should be able to feel it just back from the center of the head. A basset puppy should not have a big round head.
3) FACE: A basset face should appear sad to you when you look at it. There is no standard for this. (Just be sure you like the face you’re looking at)
4) LEGS: A basset should be longer than it is tall if it isn’t: run, don’t walk, away. They should be long, and low with good size bone in the legs with bigger feet.

This is a picture of my Annie at 9 weeks old.  You want to pull the puppy's ears forward like shown here to check length.
Like I said above you want a minimum of touching the end of the nose at 6 weeks.  They are not finished growing at 6 weeks, they will get longer.

PUPPY PROOFING YOUR HOUSE
Keep in mind that a puppy is the canine equivalent to a toddler and it is up to you to mold it into a functioning member of the household/family. Everything is new to a puppy and like most kids all new things go in the mouth. This is the reason you will either have to puppy proof your house or never take your eyes off of your puppy. Just a little common sense really, if it’s not safe for you it’s not safe for a puppy, but here are a few tips anyway:
 • Block off staircases and other structures a puppy could fall from. Jumping off of couches, beds, and stairs are bad for a young bassets developing skeletal structure.
• Block off Pools, bassets are poor swimmers due to the build of their bodies.        
• Put toxic substances, like cleaners, detergents, poisons, and antifreeze, out of reach! Especially Antifreeze, they can and will kill your puppy.
• Anything a puppy might be harmed by chewing on need to be protected from those curious mouths. Electrical cords, small toys, plants that may be poisonous, and basically any other non food product small enough to be swallowed
Don’t like putting things away from puppy?  Well do what I do and start at day 1 training them the meaning of NO, keep them in their crate when unattended, and provide them with plenty of puppy SAFE things to chew on and play with. 

THINGS TO BUY FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY
Getting a new puppy doesn’t have to be a huge ordeal, especially if it’s not your first puppy ever, but here is a list of some helpful items for first time puppy owners as well as the aged veterans.
1. A crate and bedding: not only will this serve as puppy’s bed it is one of the most important components for house training.  
2. Food and water bowls: anything from fancy store bought to just low butter bowls will suffice, it’s best to use something heavy for the water dish though to prevent spills.
3. Puppy food: whatever brand you prefer, some breeders will provide you with samples of what they use but if you want to use your own mix it together with theirs and slowly change the puppy over.
4. Collar and leash. Not a choke collar!
5. Nail clippers, Ear cleaner, Brush, and Puppy shampoo (I recommend Oatmeal Shampoo).
6. Puppy treats and chew sticks
7. Puppy Safe Toys. 

BRINGING YOUR NEW PUPPY HOME
Patience is the key to a getting off on the right foot with your puppy. Always remember that if you don’t teach the puppy right from wrong and what is expected of it then it will never know. Don’t expect the puppy to be perfect on the first day or even the first week for that matter, you have to remain calm and teach him/her how to behave without traumatizing them. Get the puppy in a routine and start crate training immediately, a bad habit never started is the easiest to break. Puppies need their own space just like you do, put a blanket or towel down and designate that a nap spot for the pup and if the puppy goes there to lay leave him or her be and don’t let children pester them when they are there, that way the puppy will know there is a spot to go to just be left alone. Don’t go running to the puppy every time it cries because it will soon associate crying to attention and will cry every time they want to see you. It’s much better to reward them for being calm. Just think about what you want to instill into your puppy and start at day one with good behavior. If you let them get away with bad behavior for 3 or 4 days then you have to break the bad habits and then teach them proper behavior; where if you just start off enforcing the rules you are much better off. Keep in mind that like kids, puppies will have individual personalities, what works for one might not work for the next, just keep trying and be consistent. Some puppies will be particularly stubborn---DON’T BEAT THEM, OR KICK THEM, OR SCREAM AT THEM—you’ll just make them timid and afraid and cause even more bad habits. If you have to enforce a rule with more than a NO then try this method: a light swat on the rump with an empty paper towel roll—you know the cardboard insert in the center—for some reason to a dog that is the awful stick of doom. A couple bonks on the rump with one of those and they’ll get the picture really quick. I guess it’s the funny noise it makes, but they hate it, and it doesn’t hurt them at all. 

 HOUSEBREAKING INSTRUCTIONS
(This method was given to me whan I bought one of my bassets and it works.)
It is very important that you are vigilant when you first take a puppy home, if you don't start immediately you have lost the battle before it begins. 
Get a large box or crate and put bedding in it, you will need to put the puppy in it at any time that the puppy will not be attended.  Take the puppy out every hour during the day at first.  Every puppy is different and you will learn how often it needs to go out with time.  If it potty's let it down in the house to play for about 15 to 20 minutes.  It will learn fast that if it potty's it will get to play.  After 15 to 20 minutes either put it back in the box or hold it, it won't wet in it's box or on you unless it is desperate.  At night take the puppy's food and water away 2 hours before you go to bed and don't give any more food until morning. 
Always take the puppy out after it eats or drinks.
Young puppies cannot go all day without food.  If you work I recommend feeding first thing in the morning, the minute you get home from work and again 2 hours before bed, or you can leave a small amount of food and water in the crate with the puppy while you are gone.
As the puppy gets older it will be able to hold it longer so at first if the puppy has accidents while you are gone during the day don't stress over it.  As it gets older it will be able to make it longer until ultimately it can go the full length of your absence without and accident.

MAKING THE DECISION TO BREED YOUR PET OR NOT
 I can tell you to never breed your basset as will most websites you visit, but I feel it is you decision to make and nobody else’s business. However, you should be aware of all that is involved with breeding your basset and the advantages of not breeding. First, I want to say that Hilltop Farm 100% advocates spay/neuter. The overpopulation of dogs and cats is a serious problem resulting in hundreds of thousands of animals to be homeless, starving, mistreated, then out of those are the ones who make it to a shelter where they may or may not be adopted, and we all know what happens to the unadopted animals. With that being said, fixing you pet is the healthier happier way of life for you dog or cat. Unlike people, the desire to breed is not based on pleasure it is an instinct that is completely meaningless to them whether they experience it or not. It’s like getting hungry; if they get hungry they eat, if they come in heat they breed. A fixed pet will not have the urge to wander looking for a mate; they will be a more affectionate, level tempered pet. There are a great deal of health risks involved in breeding bassets, before you decide to breed you family pet that is practically one of you children, check into all that can go wrong and think about the worst case scenario: what will you do if your dog dies from this experience? Your female will never look the same after raising pups. Are you willing to sit up all night long delivering puppies? Where will you raise the pups? Can you run home from work to check on her and the pups every couple hours or so? Those are just the basic realities of having a litter, that’s not covering the things that can go wrong and all the extra work involved, then beyond that you have to find good homes for you pups. Like I said this is a decision you have to make. I love raising pups that’s why I do it, just be aware that there is a great deal involved. If you have questions you can ask me.


NEED MORE HELPFUL INFORMATION?
VISIT THE BASSET HOUND CLUB OF AMERICA!
www.basset-bhca.org